Watches & Wonders: The Evolution of the Watch Industry’s "Olympics"

Every April, the global watch community—collectors, journalists, and retailers—turns its gaze toward Switzerland. Watches & Wonders (W&W) has officially claimed its title as the "Olympics" of horology. But how did we get here?

 

 

To understand the prestige of Watches & Wonders, we must look at its roots: SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie). In the early days, the industry was dominated by Baselworld, which operated as a massive watch fair open to the general public.

 

 

However, in 1991, the Richemont Group—led by Cartier—decided to pursue a more refined, high-end environment. They broke away to establish SIHH, which at the time was an exclusive "private club." It operated on a strict invitation-only basis, catering solely to the world’s top VIPs and media.

 

 

As times changed, the organizer, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), realized the need for a deeper connection with the public. In 2020, SIHH was officially rebranded as Watches & Wonders Geneva. While the pandemic initially forced the event online, it inadvertently ushered in a new era of "phygital" (physical and digital) integration. Following the decline of the former industry giant Baselworld, heavyweights such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Chanel officially joined the ranks.

 

 

Today, Watches & Wonders has evolved from a niche salon into a global spectacle that opens its doors to the public during the final days of the fair. By 2026, the number of participating brands will reach a record high of 66, including the highly anticipated return of Audemars Piguet.

 

 

From the fall of Basel to the rise of Geneva, the evolution of Watches & Wonders is a microcosm of the luxury watch industry’s transformation. It is no longer just a business venue for brands and retailers; it has become an artistic temple dedicated to the soul of branding and the mastery of horological engineering.